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The engine will turn over but won't start.
I've checked a few things and have found that my spark plug isn't getting any spark..
If i take off my dizzy cap and turn it over theres a spark.

200km ago i changed my plugs, distributor cap and the distributor button.

Any ideas of how to fix this?

Is this the first time it has cut out while driving?

My wagon went through a phase where it would randomly die and was a pain in the arse to try and diagnose.
There are 2 wires coming out of the side of the dissy and a little way along is a 2 pin plug- when i played with that it would start and conversely when it was running and i played with it, it would cut out.
I used some fine sandpaper to clean up the male and female terminals- then actually opened up the male terminals slightly so they'd fit in tighter.
I've had zero problems since -maybe you can try that?

Otherwise your coil might be bad? -but seeing as you've only very recently been fiddling around in there changing plugs and dissy cap etc.. the chances are it's some kind of connection issue.

what engine what ignition?

its a 4g32

I had a look and theres only a earth wiring coming from the dizzy :s

I had another look today and my coil is getting spark, so I'm assuming its either a faulty distributor cap or the leads so I'm getting both of them tomorrow.

Have you tried replacing the condensor on the distributor ? Worth checking ... they do fail, and you will get weak / no spark.

I didn't even think of that.. Ill check it out thanks dave

I replaced the condenser but still no luck :/

Leeroy wrote:If i take off my dizzy cap and turn it over theres a spark.

Where are these sparks? In the cap, on a removed lead, in the dizzy?

jvflash wrote:Where are these sparks? In the cap, on a removed lead, in the dizzy?

There is spark going from the coil to the distributor
Spark in the distributor when the cap is off

No spark from the distributor to a removed lead while holding up to an earth..

Car still not running, Mobile auto electrician on the GC is $95 just for the callout!!! not even to assess the problem...

No spark from the distributor to a removed lead while holding up to an earth

All leads, or just one ?

Sounds almost like rotor button is not contacting the terminals in the distributor cap ..... is the cap seating properly ?

[quote="LeeroyThere is spark going from the coil to the distributor
Spark in the distributor when the cap is off [/quote]

Is the coil wired up backwards? This would cause a weak spark from the coil and sparking in the distributor.
Sparking in the distributor is the not normal bit - could also be a broken condensor. Is there black arc residue around the points?

is the cap seating properly ?

Nah it seems to have a little bit of play (wobble). And I've only tried the first lead. Is there any easy way to see if the leads are faulty? I've checked for cracks or splits in the leads that could be a leak but i couldn't find anything.

Is the coil wired up backwards? This would cause a weak spark from the coil and sparking in the distributor.
Sparking in the distributor is the not normal bit - could also be a broken condensor. Is there black arc residue around the points?

Well it was working for 2000km prior to this happening.. so i don't think its wired up backwards. I replaced the condenser, still no spark :/

You need to test all 4 leads.

Test each in turn by pulling it off the plug & seeing if it is producing a good strong spark to earth (eg. the rocker cover or block)

If it's only one lead that seems "dead", switch another lead to that position on the dizzy cap and see if that works - that will tell you if it's the lead, or something in it's connection with the cap or rotor.

You can test leads for continuity if you have a multimeter .... resistance should be zero. It's quite possible to have a lead with a brocken core than looks perfectly fine externally.

(by the way ... engine will still run with the coil connected backwards - mine was like that for ages before I noticed. Ran much better when I fixed it though !)

EDIT : Another thought - is one of the distributor cam lobes worn down ? ie. if you turn the motor by hand (with ignition off !), do the points open & close properly at each position ?

Just fixed my problem, had the wong dizzy cap and rotor.

The rotor was pushing too hard onto the cap and caused it to wear down. Check this on yours to see if you have clearance between the cap and rotor

I wasnt keen on paying the $95 call out fee for the auto electrician so i decided to join RACQ road side assist for $40 per year. As soon as I hung up the phone I called road side assistance and literally within 3 minutes the guy was outside my house. He said I had a faulty rotor button. I've replaced it and now its wanting to turn over however my timing is wayyyyy out because I took my distributor off to take it to an auto electrician to test it, however they were all shut on a saturday :/

He also said that my points were "rooted" lol

So in turn, my problem was the same as Shuggy's. The rotor button wasnt transferring current to the end of the copper plate, instead it was just protruding through the top of it, thus causing none of the cylinders to get spark.

Now to redo my timing.. which is gonna be interesting because this is my first time

Once you've done it you'll become a timing master. Invest in a dwell/tach meter from an auto accessory shop and learn how to use it - it will be your best friend every time you need to do a tune up. A cheats way of setting your base timing is to turn the engine to TDC on #1 cylinder, turn the ignition on but don't start the engine. Loosen off the dizzy retaining nut and turn the distributor body by hand and listen for a 'click' from the points breaking open (the click is the spark jumping the gap). As you turn it back and forth slowly you'll find the point where the spark discharges. Lock up the retaining nut and see if it'll start - it should fire first go, then it's only a matter of getting the timing light on it and setting the rest of your timing up to specs.

Yer timing is all done now, I had a go at it but I couldnt get it running efficiently, My mechanic friend came over and fixed it up for me however my carbies are ridiculously out of tune.. Its bearly idling, So off to the shop tomorrow to get it tuned. Hopefully wont cost to much money.