Ive always wanted a Hydraulic handbrake.
But when they are asking around $400 for a complete unit,
Probably out of the price range for most.
So i thought i would show a post how I made myself a Hydraulic Handbrake for cheap,
And using basic tools and parts around the shed..
and you can use your existing Handbrake, and cover up the Evidence with a centre consol!
Im sure alot of the rally guys will already have this technology, but some guys doing work from home might be interested.
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Now I will start by saying.
Hydraulic Handbrakes are Illegal in Street driven Vehicles!
Unless you have your standard Emergency brake in place, incase the brake system fails....
And even then im pretty sure they are illegal full stop.
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Ok so here it is.
Master Cylinder $90
I got mine from the Revolution Race Gear.
Its a 3/4 inch bore (common)
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Then I cut 2 small plates Identical.
They will be mounted either side of the Current handbrake.
and drilled some 8mm holes in them.
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Then I grabbed a piece of 90 degree plate.
Blew a hole in it with an oxy just big enough for the front of the Clyinder to go through.
But allowed enough to drill 8.5mm holes for bolting it up.
And some holes in the base plate for mounting to the floor....
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My first attempt -
I cut the head off a 12mm bolt
And ground down the end smooth and rounded with a bench grinder.
I used a 12mm nut,
Then i took 2 x 6mm bolts with a long shank (non threaded part)
And I welded the 6mm bolts to either side of the 12mm nut.
They will be cut shorter later
Watch out for sparks filling the thread inside your nut.
May need to run a tap, or another 12mm bolt through the thread after.
And you can see here how the 12mm bolt will act as the driving pin to push the cylinder, but is also adjustable.
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How ever this didnt work!!
The Hydraulic Cylinder has a Washer at the front of it, which is a retaining plate
to stop the piston coming out.
Unfortunatelt the 12mm bolt was too round,
and also too short!
The angle was too steep and was interfering with the Retaining washer.
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So I have had to Move the Cylinder back to reduce the agressive angle.
And then used a length of 10mm Stainless Threaded bar.
Again ground the end to a smooth round point.
Made a 10mm nut and 6mm bolts (this time i used shorter shank,
found wasnt necessary for the longer ones)
Trial in in place and cut off what length of the Threaded rod you dont need,
allowing alittle left over for adjustments.
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Now i just need Two hoses made to suit,
and splice into the Rear brake line and add new fittings.
Its not finished yet. but you get the idea.
As I said, the only cost for me was $90 for the cylinder.
Bolts and nuts and scrap peices of plate are usually easy to come by for most.
And then its just afew tools
Welder, Grinder, drop saw, Pedistal drill....
Ill show finished product soon
Cheers
