Sigma-galant.com

Hey guys. As some of you know, i am now keeping both galants.

I have the worked gb, and an almost stock ga. it has gd struts, looks like a sport exhaust, and possibly a different carb. Didn't have enough time to have a closer look at the carb. I also think the ga is a 1500?

What I'm thinking is;
-Take the ga back to stock (with maybe a 5 speed). Or!
-Put the worked 1600 in the ga with the 5 speed and all the lowered suspension and goodies. Then, put either the 1500 in the gb, or source a stock 1600 and do a full rebuild on the entire car. Give it what it deserves as its rather sentimental. And have it as the standard weekender/odd daily if I want and use the ya for the rest, including numerous track days, khanas, hill limbs (if SE QLD has any! Lol) and other events.

So. What's your honest opinion? I just want a few options up my sleeve (apart from a g63! Lol. Too expensive! And if I want a g63.. I'll buy a starion ;) which is on the cards in the future

just a thought, grab a busted arse l200 which have the single ohc 4g63 , 5 sp,...and there you go.....

-.- you had to say g63 lol very tempting. Do you know what's exactly involved? Is it the same as a turbo?

I think I hate yellow

Lol! My favourite colour! But the gb is going white. The ga staying orange.. For now

Yeah I just read the title and gave you my opinion Should have read the post first, lol.
Keep them both Saturn's, work one of it's head in the fun car and keep the other one stock for the classic/stock car. Or as mentioned grab a 80's Triton and steal the SOHC 4G63 and 5 speed out of it. Straight bolt in affair AFAIK

good on ya! And yea I already have a 1600 that's off tap. I'd love a stock one. But I'd rather something more fuel efficient. Some poke, and easy to do. I'm tempted about the g63! So.. Bolt in affair?? So that's with my engine mounts? No serious mods like the turbo?

Engine mounts, gearbox and mounts, alternator wiring and fuel lines all match up. You might need to get the front yoke changed on your tail shaft, mix and match radiator hoses and made play about with the accelerator cable but that should be about it.
There will always be little bits and pieces come up but it should be a pretty straight forward swap

Well n/a g63 it looks! Now for the hunt!

What year model to and from? I fount an 84 but its 2.6

It seems it a g63b? What's the difference?

No difference
85-95 L300's ran 4G63's too, should be heaps at most wrecking yards

Thanks so the b must be for rwd applications?

75glnt wrote:Thanks so the b must be for rwd applications?

Both the same engine but some refer to it as a 4G63 or a G63B (the 'B' denotes the engine as being 'belt' drive) I've said this plenty of times, but when you decide to do this transplant take the exhaust headers that are fitted to the G63B engine. You will be happy with this engine upgrade. The bonus with going down this path (especially with a GA/GB galant) is the engine is still relatively compact and won't cause you grief with radiator clearance and is lighter than a 4G52/54, so it won't screw up the handling. The extra 400 cc's over the already gutless Saturn 1600 will turn a bath tub weight GA into a little rocket

Hmmm. Don't really like belt drives, if they're anything like g32b. Lol. How hard is it to go chain drive? Is it a simple sprocket replacement and a chain? It is it like a head change etc? Would a twin cam head be a good upgrade? Change the bottom to a sprocket and add the chain? What's involved in a 5 speed conversion in a ga? I've heard it's harder that the rest? I know the 60mm odd cut on the back end of selector hole, and moving the x member back. Also. Do I need a sigma x member for a siggy 5 speed or a triton x member for the triton box? Or just use the galant one with whatever the gearbox is from mounts? Deffinately more info needed on that side of things.

I've gotta do a check list. Please feel free to add or change things if I'm wrong
1: n/a 4g63b (is there a n/a 4g63 chain drive??)
2:5speed gearbox to suit (if the engine doesn't have one already)
3:cut floor to suit 5 speed
4:better front brakes (looking at doing galant struts converted to coilovers, commodore blisten shocks and some sort of a disc and calipers upgrade?? Or. Skyline r33 gtr front coilovers with vented rotors. But for rego I'll throw some siggy ones in
5:possibly custom radiator (I will go alluminium 3 core. Just depends on the location of the hoses as to what one I get).
6.oh almost forgot! Keep the headers off the engine! Although I'll have extractors ;)

Anything I have forgotten?

Out of all of the relevant Mitsubishi engines that have a B variant, the only one where the B could possibly denote belt drive is the 4G32B. All 4G63s/G63s are belt drive, all 4G54s/G54s are chain drive, all 4G52s/G52s are chain drive, and they all have B variants so it doesn't make much sense that the B would stand for belt drive.
Basically:
4G63: belt
G63B: belt
4G52: chain
G52B: chain
4G54: chain
G54B: chain
The only exception is the 4G32/G32.
4G32: chain
4G32B: belt
etc etc.

The B simply means it's an updated design. Better port design, flat tops, whatever. Has nothing to do with whether or not it's belt drive, otherwise all those 2.6L Magnas getting about would have belt drive engines, and we all know that's most definitely not the case.

Thanks for that webby will a l300 van engine be ok guys? And will a siggy 5 speed bolt on? I think 63s are a wide block?? An I right?

webby wrote:Out of all of the relevant Mitsubishi engines that have a B variant, the only one where the B could possibly denote belt drive is the 4G32B. All 4G63s/G63s are belt drive, all 4G54s/G54s are chain drive, all 4G52s/G52s are chain drive, and they all have B variants so it doesn't make much sense that the B would stand for belt drive.
Has nothing to do with whether or not it's belt drive, otherwise all those 2.6L Magnas getting about would have belt drive engines, and we all know that's most definitely not the case.

Correct.

As far as I know SOHC were wide and DOHC were narrow. I can't find any reason to think otherwise, but as always will be happy to be corrected.

Halfway right. All DOHC engines were narrowblock from factory, but not all SOHC were wideblock. As we know, all FWD are narrowblock, which includes SOHC 4G63s (in the first of the FWD Galants, in both turbo and NA format) and 16v SOHC 4G63s (in HH/HJ Galants). Some L200s/L300s also had a narrowblock SOHC G63.

Hmmm?? Right?? so what has a stronger gearbox? Wide block or narrow? Eg. Is a triton gearbox stronger than a jap 5 speed? Starions are wide block correct? What are the gearboxes in them like? Also what dimensions are wide vs narrow?

Either or, Scorpion-sourced Jap boxes are all the same in terms of strength. GE/GH boxes are 2" shorter than GJ/GK/GL boxes.
Triton gearboxes are a Jap 5spd, just with stronger bearings and thicker gears. So yes, HOWEVER, they have shit ratios for a road car. 1st is so short it's useless, and it's a massive jump to 2nd.
Starion gearboxes are a Triton box with a hydraulic clutch and not-shit ratios. Both are wideblock.
Narrow=310mm across the locating dowels, wide= 330mm.

Well, one thing I can be sure of - you won't be using an L300 van gearbox. They have a remote shifter lever with linkages to the gearbox. According to the manual I have on the Sirius generation of mitsubishi engines they were all denoted G##B up to 1989. That year they went back to 4G## designation. Why? Dunno... Belt drive engines have pros and cons like any other engine - at least you don't have to pull apart 1/3rd of the motor to replace the timing stuff.

I am running a narrow block Triton box behind my DOHC 4G63. Ratios are the same as Starion I am pretty sure, it is the 4.4 diff ratios in the utes that made the difference

Ok... So? Advantages on a hydraulic clutch vs cable? Starion box sounds good but so does a jap 5 speed with billet internals!

The Galant's that you have, are they origionally auto or manual cars. Auto has a bigger tunel than a Manual. You will need to do some massaging (with a big fn hammer) of the tunnel to fit the wide block box in there (as from memory it just hits in a couple of spots), also you will not be able to remove the gearbox from motor unless you unbolt the motor from the crossmember and move it forward.

Hydraulic i have put in my Sigma with a heavy clutch. It was origionally running a cable and it had started cutting into the outer casing. The hydraulic also made it alot easier on the foot as it wasn't that hard to operate.

Hmmm. I think for the likes of a bracket. It'll stop the rubbing on the gearbox? And the gb was auto. (GB 4xxx). Ga is a manual (GA 3xxx). The 4g63 is for the ga. so, it's a manual. Lol. I'll try and find a narrow block g63 that's rear wheel drive. Or, just mod the trans tunnel. Without the big effing hammer! Lol. Might try some fab skills?? After all. It is the car I'm using to do everything on myself

i got a auto tunnel out of a Galant and put it in one of my manual body Galant's as i run mainly wide block stuff. The auto tunnel is an "insert" panel anyway. It looks like they were all made manual floor pan's and some went through a die that cut the manual tunnel out and the auto one was welded in place.

Oh cool might do that then! Thanks mate

The gearbox mount is closer to the motor for a 4 speed than the 5 Speed. In the manual GA there is no mount further back meaning you would have to do some welding. The gb is different.

true Phil, unless it was an Auto shell to start with, and then the mounting location is correct for the 5 speed.