Sigma-galant.com

ok so ive searched, and i have found that everyone who has done a GH strut conversion has boosted brakes - which has a different bore in the rear brake and master cylinders..

so by rights putting GH struts in an unboosted galant would give way off ratios and wouldnt work.. right??

so what are my options without going boosted?

this is gonna be such a stupid question but do any GH's come with unboosted brakes??

if they do i may consider changing the rear cylinders over to GH ones and swapping the master over..

ideas?

As far as I know there were no un boosted Sigmas at all. Why don't you want to go boosted?
All Coupes were boosted, I think GD's were boosted, and I am pretty sure GE-GH Sigma and Scorpion boosters bolt right up. I wouldn't think it would cost you any more then about $30 from a wreckers for a booster.
Have you decided what you are doing with your Coupe yet? If you are not finishing it take the booster/brakes out of that.

i stripped everything out of the coupe, i mean everything and gave the shell away

there was too much structual rust in the end..

top of both struts was reallbad and the whole underside of the top chassis rail.. as well as everything else on it

im gonna check thru my GH and my GC/GD manaual and see if cylinder sizes are the same on the rear..

if i got a GH booster onto an unboosted car is that hard?

You ditched the coupe???????
DOOOOOOOOOOD

Did you keep any of the parts that were good on it?? Such as the booster, console, tacho etc?

Yes he did, but he has kept all the cool bits waiting until another one comes up.

letmefknin wrote:You ditched the coupe???????
DOOOOOOOOOOD

Did you keep any of the parts that were good on it?? Such as the booster, console, tacho etc?

i kept every single nut, bolt, window, trim... everything!

but shell was shot and has no compliance plates and yeah. would of cost a helll of a lot..

Galant_GT0 wrote:Yes he did, but he has kept all the cool bits waiting until another one comes up.

that would be correct

......so I guess the obvious answer is use the booster off the Koop
or
when I ask the question in an early post someone suggested a GE booster.

I have GH struts and brakes in my GC and its un boosted, I have no problems with braking.
Recently I also got braided brake lines and holy s*** they make a massive difference. So dont need boosted brakes. I also have GH strust and brakes in my LC and it is boosted and personally I actuallythink the brakes in the Galant are better now with the unboosted and braided lines......maybe the 2.6L in the LC is just creating too much vacuum, because the brakes are really heavy...but rarely lock up.


Cheers Matt

awesome thats what i wanted to hear!
i just looked at the wheel cylinder sizes and that was what i was worried about as the gc front are 51.10mm and the GH are.. infact i dont know haah
but the master cylinders are different i know that because GH are boosted ;)
so i spose if the wheel cylinders are similar in size they should be ok, the only thing is if they are different it means that the rear may lock up before the front or vise versa doesnt it?

a booster is just a vacuum assist when you step on the brakes
you DONT need them and if you have a big cam or turbo there useless to you anyway
so just go without and build up your leg muscles
cheers stealth

the man has spoken

thabks mate

stealth wrote:so just go without and build up your leg muscles

Unless you have little girly legs... in which case a booster is a good investment

girly legs lol nothing wrong with girly legs ankles at bottom good thing at top
but never good on a dude
so man up shugges
lol
cheers stealth

a booster can be a rego/engineering requirement if the predal pressure is too high..... dont muck with brakes unless you know what your doing.

pffft hahah, 'thats how all my galants have been what you talkin about??'

I had GH strut's and a GH Disc brake rear end in my GB Galant with a GH master cylinder with NO booster. Worked fine for me.

ok back 1, so that is what i wana know. Can i take the master off a gh, remove the booster, and stick it on my galant? Because if i can do that then i will just swap the rear wheel cylinders off a gh with drums at the same time.. Or whole rear brake assembly if easy enough.

Does anyone have a gh factory manual they can give me the master and wheel cylinder sizes and travel distance from?

Keep the Galant M/cyl (if it presently has front drums, remove the non return valve from the front circuit of the m/cyl outlet) and fit 9" rear brakes from a Galant wagon. If the m/cyl is old, renew it. I'm certain they are still available for around $100.
I had a non boosted GB for many years with Scorpion struts/brakes, 9" rears and this worked great. I do believe the DB170 Scorpion setup is more effective than the DB1085 Girlocks from a Sigma though.(bigger pads, greater swept area on the rotor, and less flexing)
It's a good idea to fit new hoses (as mentioned above) although braided is not necessary.

Ok just for some clarity for me, i get my GC coupe on Monday and this is one of the first mods i will be doing.

Having a GC coupe, i will have a booster. If i put on the the Scorpion green struts and Scorpion front brakes on, will the Scorpion master cylinder bolt straight up? How will the Scorpion master affect the rear drums?

Is the scorpion disc rear end an easy bolt in thing or is there alot of modding required? I would have thought i would be wider?

i put gh sigma struts and brakes in my gc coupe and am using the galant booster and master cylinder and it works fine

scorplover wrote:Ok just for some clarity for me, i get my GC coupe on Monday and this is one of the first mods i will be doing.

Having a GC coupe, i will have a booster. If i put on the the Scorpion green struts and Scorpion front brakes on, will the Scorpion master cylinder bolt straight up? How will the Scorpion master affect the rear drums?

Is the scorpion disc rear end an easy bolt in thing or is there alot of modding required? I would have thought i would be wider?

Scorpion struts are black.

If you use the Scorpion m/cylinder with rear drums, you would need a non-return valve in the rear circuit outlet port. I would certainly overhaul the cylinder and a kit may have the additional valve.

Better off fitting a new GC Galant cylinder, and, as I recall, they come in at least 2 bore diameters. One is probably the same as the Scorpion. Consult a major brake parts specialist near you.

Roger

Cheaterparts runs his race Sigma unboosted, I cant remember his setup.
I prefer the feel of unboosted, but dont run a boosted master cyl without a booster.
I ran sigma struts in my galant unboosted and had no probs.

toruhiwi wrote:It's a good idea to fit new hoses (as mentioned above) although braided is not necessary.

True braided not essential but when it was going to cost me $160 for brand new 2 piece rubber hoses, or $110 for brand new one piece braided, i took the cheaper and better option (cant say those two in the same sentence very often).


Cheers Matt

Rally_2.6LC wrote:

toruhiwi wrote:It's a good idea to fit new hoses (as mentioned above) although braided is not necessary.

True braided not essential but when it was going to cost me $160 for brand new 2 piece rubber hoses, or $110 for brand new one piece braided, i took the cheaper and better option (cant say those two in the same sentence very often).


Cheers Matt

I got some new rubber hoses from Brake Smart in Wollongong for $40 a side they make them while you wait or just ring up and they post them out

They do stainless braid for $70 per side in various colours

All hoses have ADR approval stamps