Hey all just wondering what plugs ppl tend
To use for there TR/TS 4g54 efi conversions.
The mechanic that did my conversion put ngk
BP5ES ( the sigma ngk plug) but on ngk site
Specifies BP6ES for 4g54 magnas. I bought some
BP5EY think there same as the BP5ES just have
V cut electrode. Do yo usually gap em standard
0.8mm?
Is the much diff in the BP5ES and BP6ES ngk plugs?
Hey all
just wondering if people use stock sigma alternators
when then install aftermarket computers and fuel pumps etc
I'm running bosch main fuel pump ad smaller pump to fill surge tank
and soon will be running haltech, and standard magna computer.
my batt is in the boot.
measured it only 13.10v across the battery when car running,
swapped alternator with another stil the same
the one in car i think was a magna
which is 55Amps the one i put in was standard sigma one which was 40 Amp
do you have to use something a bit beefer with all the extra accessories?
I'm guessing that the car has not been running at all (or very close to no running) for a long period of time......if that's the case, then ur battery may have lost its charge over time
Yeah car is stored mostly, when stored in shed
And put back in when driven, and charged with
Good charger and rotated with my other battery
In my everyday car. So battery shouldn't be drained
I hope.
Cool thanks for the help man. Is much modding
Need to fit it or do the bolt up fairly easy in place of
The standard. Still not sure if fuel problem or elec problem
Seems ok when cold but after driving for 30mins or so
Fuel pressure fluctuates badly got fuel pressure gauge
To check.
I used the pulley wheel off the sigma alternator and made up a spacer to fit it on the triton alternator.
Tensioning bracket was further away so I got a bit dodgy.
Nothing about the install is ideal, but it works fine - I was just using an alternator I had on hand. The bottom bolt doesn't even locate the alternator fully, it can move backwards and fowards until the belt and tensioner go on.
For the wiring i googled "4 wire alternator wiring" and used a diagram that looked similar and it worked!
I'm still having problems with the car.
Drives fine for 20-30mins then starts bogging
Missing like its out of fuel. And won't start till its cooled down
A bit.
I've tried few different fuel pumps still does it.
Also this weekend changed fuel reg. I'm thinking
Of changing the injectors next.
After the car heats up and starts faulting
Fuel pressure gauge needle bouncing all over place. When cold
Steady 40 something psi.
Have installed permantly to try and fault find.
Might need one on the surge tank pump.
I've done some reading online and people say
Something about fuel vapour lock where petrol
Gets hot and turns to vapour which I guess is
Like having air in lines.
Which makes sense as when faults can feel the surge
Tank is warm and main pump is warm. Usually
Gets noiser before it faults.
Anyone else had this problem or any ideas
On what could help. Or could It just be my car
Cos of the cam. Maybe everything gets hotter
At idle with big cam.
Surge tank setup:
Top line returns to tank when overflows
Next line down return line from fuel rail
Next line surge tank filler pump
Bottom bigger line for main pump
There's a filter from main tank to surge tank filler pump
And a high gauze filter between surge tank output
And main pump.
Only ever been having this issue since installed surge
Tank.
Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions ideas
Some say online to fix it to run the hot fuel from
Fuel rail bak into main tank to help cool it.
But the surge tank pump wouldn't be able to keep
Up with main pump volume would it?
Just annoys me when take it for a drive it always does
Every time I try to change something to fix it.
It's been awhile and want to get it sorted. Because
It seems such a waste spending most it's life in storage.
Thanks
Finally sorted it
Few weekends ago
Changed the surge tank set up
Moved the surge tank filler pump closer to main
Tank, the main problem was there was too many
Filters on the filler pump. Those little small in line
Threaded filters are useless apparently because not
Much surface area. Soon as got rid of them was fine.
Yesterday Took for a drive for 2h not a problem. And pumps
Still coolish. Where as before 20-30mins before the fuel pressure
Would fluctuate and get vapour lock and pumps would
Overheat.
Next is get a bung welded on my extractors
For a wideband and get it tuned with haltech
And get it running better, runs lean most of time unless
Ur thrashing it. Prob cos of cam. And high reving in
Open loop.
Might drop the fuel tank and replace the fuel gauge sender
As when below 1/4 tank shows empty. Think the wire coils are worn
In that position.
The fuel gauge problem could be the gauge cluster voltage regulator which gives a false reading when it plays up.
The low fuel warning light usually is accurate and works off its own sensor. When the light comes on you have about 4 litres left in the tank.
Sigmaproject wrote:The fuel gauge problem could be the gauge cluster voltage regulator which gives a false reading when it plays up.
The low fuel warning light usually is accurate and works off its own sensor. When the light comes on you have about 4 litres left in the tank.
Cheers man. Yea pretty sure the light works.
4L wouldn't get ur far in a sig hehe.
Yea I got the speedo repaired early on
In the piece pretty sure they changed a reg. but
Is there more than one?